When it comes to complete aggravation, putting a push lock hose together comes close to the very top of the list. As a matter of fact, the most common question seen on internet forums is “how do you do the push lock hoses?” And, most of the answers are way off the track.
The EZ-ON Hose Press installs -4 to -16 push lock hoses.
These are the traditional methods. They do make it a lot harder to get the job done and could be problematic.
The Boiling Water Method
This method requires that you boil water to a rolling boil stage (above 212F) and then dip at least 5 – 6” of the hose and the fittings into the water and let them sit there for 15 – 20 minutes. Lubricate both the hose and fitting and push them together. Sounds simple doesn’t it? It is until you can’t get the hose past the second barb and then you can’t get it off to do it again.
The Heat Gun Method
This gets scary when you have to hold each of the sections next to 800+ degree heat! Burning the hose is common.
The Fastest, Easiest, and Safest Way
Koul Tools is proud that we were able to come up with a tool for you to install push lock hoses the easiest and fastest way ever!
If you’re tired of fighting with push lock hoses, check out the video below:
How’s that for simple? That’s our EZ-On Hose Press. You can order it directly on our website.
All the components for -4 to -16 push lock hoses are included. Better yet, they come with their own case and are color coded to make it easy to confirm at a glance that you have the right size.
Think of how much aggravation you can avoid. We hope you enjoyed the video.
Over the years I’ve done my share of AN hose assembly projects. These jobs can be a piece of cake or a major pain in the neck. As most of you know already, the biggest hurdle to cross is inserting the hose into the socket. If you don’t get a clean cut on your braided stainless steel hose it can be a nightmare getting it into the the fitting. That’s why I invented the AN Hose Assembly Tool to funnel the frayed ends into the nut.
Once you get the hose into the socket and installed all the way to the threads, most of the ugly stuff is behind you. However, there is one more potential obstacle that can be just as frustrating. When you go to screw the fitting into the nut, the AN hose can push out of the end you just installed it into.
Recently, I discovered a way to clamp braided stainless steel hose with AN vise jaw inserts. Place the inserts so that they are sticking half way out of the vise. As you can see in the photo, both the fitting and the hose are secured tightly. You probably don’t need to mark the hose anymore, but it’s never a bad idea just to be safe.
Is your brake line leaking where the flare joins the fitting? If so, it is important to address the issue immediately and with a legitimate solution.
When it comes to leaky brake line fittings there are plenty of band-aid fixes that could end up being disastrous. I was fed up with these unreliable methods when I was attempting to repair a leaking brake line in my Packard Coupe, and that is when I began looking for a real way to solve this issue.
Why Brake Lines Leak at the Flare
Brake lines will leak at the flare when there is a poor connection with the seat of the fitting. This type of leak is commonly known as a weep. It can be caused by a ding in the fitting, but most of the time it is the result of a tiny imperfection in the flare that occurs while flaring the tube. No matter what flaring tool I used, I never got a clean, concentric finish that enabled the flare to seat with the fitting. And it didn’t matter if I was using steel lines with a 45° double flare or stainless steel lines with a 37° single flare.
The Case for Lapping Flared Hard Lines
Lapping is a tried and true practice that goes back 100 years. Even with the best equipment, mechanics always lapped engine valves to ensure they wouldn’t leak. It occurred to me that lapping the flare on the brake line could get the tube to seat with the fitting. I decided to apply this principle to flared tubing, and it fixed the leak I was getting in my Packard. This was how I came up with the idea for the Surseat flare lapping tool.
How to Use the Surseat Flare Lapping Tool
1. Unscrew the brake line from the fitting.
2. Clamp the appropriate collet around the line.
3. Connect it to the Surseat and secure it with the lock spring.
4. Spray some lubricant to the lapping head before using it.
5. Rotate the lapping head back and forth about 6-10 times.
6. Clean and inspect the flare. There should be a smooth, concentric finish. If not, repeat step #5.
7. Remove the brake line from the Surseat and reconnect it to the fitting.
8. Bleed the brakes and check the seal.
How to Check for a Leak Where the Flare Joins the Fitting
If you have your brake or fuel line out of your vehicle, there’s an easy way to check to see if there’s a leak at the fitting. First, plug the end of the tube that you are checking by screwing in a cap flared tube nut or anything similar that will seal off that end of the tube. You can also purchase Earl’s Performance Pressure Test Kits if you don’t have anything that will work. Next, submerge the line in water and run air through the opposite end of the tube. If bubbles appear at the fitting, the seal is no good. Repeat the lapping process until you get no bubbles.
If a leak persists after lapping the flare with the Surseat, inspect the conical surface of the fitting for imperfections. Most of the time, the issue of sealing hard lines is with the flare, but there could be a problem with the fitting. A fitting can get damaged by over tightening them with an imperfect flare, by dropping something on them, or some other accident where you end up with a ding. Although it is not that common of an occurrence, it can be very problematic. For instance, what if you damage a fitting that’s welded into a tank?
More About the Surseat
The Surseat flare lapping tools have a precision, diamond dust coated lapping head that will clean up tubing flares to enable them to seat with the brake line fitting. They come in three different models: The P-51 has interchangeable 37° and 45° lapping cones and will do 3/16 to 1/2 inch tubing. The P-45 and P-37 models are designed specifically for brake lines. The smaller size and rectangular shape make it easier to work in tight spaces inside the car. The P-45 and P-37, also known as ‘Minis’, are great for fixing a leak in an existing brake or fuel line, but they can also be used to lap-in your lines when installing them in order to avoid getting a leak in the first place.
It seems to have become more difficult lately to install braided stainless hose all the way to the threads of AN fittings. Although it’s not as problematic as inserting it into the fitting, it can be burdensome and needs to be addressed.
The first time we realized this was an issue was when we bought new hose for our KOUL tool demos at the SEMA Show last fall. The hose was noticeably stiffer and far more difficult to install. Then, after receiving comments from customers about this problem, we decided to look for an easy way to get the hose fully installed.
There are three types of AN hoses that we found to be more difficult to install than others. The first culprit is the -16 braided stainless hose we use. It’s extremely stiff, making it hard to push all they way to the threads. Next, our -6 nylon braided hose is too flexible, making hard to get any force behind it. Finally, any of the smaller sizes can be difficult because it’s just hard to fully grip them.
Install braided stainless hose in a snap
1. Use the Koultool to get your hose started.
2. Clamp the hose into AN vise jaw inserts.
3. Twist and push the fitting onto the hose with a palm wrench.